Step by Step Stone Specialist Installation Instructions

Completing your own stone project can be very rewarding. Every time someone comments on how nice your project looks you can take great pride in telling them you did it yourself.

Stone installation is not hard. You can do it yourself. Let us show you how. First read the instructions all the way through and review if you have any questions. Then allow yourself an ample amount of time and follow the outlined steps.

All our stone veneer is easy to install. Just follow the instructions below and you can have a beautiful home improvement project done in no time.

Step 1. Determining the Amount of Stone Required

The amount of stone required is calculated using surface area measurements. The first is the total square feet of surface area of the designated surfaces. The surface area is determined by multiplying a width measurement by a height measurement. Refer to the drawing below for an example. If you measure in inches remember to divide the multiplied product by 144 to arrive back at a square foot measurement. Subtract any window or door areas using the same measuring technique of width multiplied by height.

The second quantity needed, if you want stone wrapped corners, is the total linear feet measurement for corner pieces of stone. If you measure in inches remember to divide by 12 to arrive at feet measurement. Always round this number up to the next foot.

Outside corners are available in 90 degree angles only. These are used when you want to wrap the stone around the corner or if you are installing stone on two walls that meet at a corner.

Note: 1 linear foot of corner pieces is equal to ¾ of a square foot of flat stone. Therefore make an adjustment to the surface area total by first multiplying the linear measurement by .75 and then subtracting this total from the surface area. These calculations are illustrated in figure 1.

Calculations:

For the wall without corner pieces

Stone required = (Total Area) - (Window Area) - (Door Area)

Total Area = 192 x 96 = 18432 in²
Window Area = 32 x 40 = 1280 in²
Door Area = 40 x 82 = 3280 in²

Stone required = 18432 - 1280 - 3280
Stone required = 13872 in²

Convert this into a square foot measurement by dividing by 144
Stone required = 13872 in² / 144 in²/ft²

Stone required = 96.3 ft²

If you wanted corner stones to wrap the corner

Total linear measurement for two corners = 96 + 96
Total linear stone = 192 in
Converted to ft
192 in / 12 in/ft = 16 ft

Total linear stone = 16 ft

Adjust the Stone required quantity
Stone required with corners = stone required - .75 x (total linear stone)
Stone required with corners = 96.3 - .75 x (16)

Stone required with corner = 84.3 ft

Step 2. Obtain the Proper Tools

Safety Glasses, Hammer, Masonry Chisel, Staple Gun, Power Screw Driver, Striking tools, Mason's Trowel, Wheel Barrow, Hoe, Hock, Towel, Level, Dust Mask.
Possibly Masonry Saw and Wide Mouth Nippers.

[Show Pictures of these, possibly two columns, still working on]

Step 3. Surface Preparation and Material Requirements

Determine which type of installation you will be performing and follow the listed procedure.

Preferred Installations:

A. Rigid Wood Related Sheathing

This includes paneling, plywood, concrete board and polystyrene insulation board installed over a rigid back wall. Install horizontally weather resistant barrier with seams having a minimum of 2 inches horizontal overlap and 6 inches vertical overlap. The barrier should meet the United Building Code (UBC) No. 14-1 for kraft waterproof building paper or asphalt saturated felt. At corners a minimum of 16 inches from a barrier joint to the corner must exist. Next attach 2.5 lb, galvanized expanded metal lath using galvanized nails. A good nail to use is a galvanized roofing nail. The large head on the roofing nail will keep the weather barrier from pulling over the nail. The nails must penetrate the stud a minimum of 1 inch and be on 6 inch centers. Metal lath joints should overlap a minimum ½ inch on horizontal joints and 1 inch for vertical joints.

B. Clean Concrete, Masonry or Stucco

No preparation is needed. Make sure the surface does not have a form release agent such as oil on it. If it does, clean thoroughly and score with a wire brush.

C. Painted, Sealed or Dirty Masonry

Clean down to the original surface either with a sand blaster, high pressure water or wire brush. Dry and remove dust. Another option is to attach 2.5 lb expanded metal lath using concrete nails or concrete screws.

Alternate Installations:

D. Metal Buildings or Panels

The best approach would be installing 7/16 wood sheathing and to proceed as in A. Rigid Wood Related Sheathing. If you apply without the wood sheathing follow the instructions from A. and in addition the metal lath should be attached using self-tapping screws with a 3/8 inch diameter head. The screw must pass through the inside metal surface at least 3/8 inch. Apply a ½ inch to ¾ inch scratch coat and allow to dry 48 hours.

F. Sheetrock

It is possible to install over sheetrock but care must be taken that the sheet rock does not one day become wet or damaged by water leaks. The best would be to remove the sheetrock install 7/16 wood sheathing and proceed as in A. Rigid Wood Related Sheathing.

Surface Preparation Material Requirements

Weather Resistant Barrier and Metal lath are required in the same quantities each,
as determined by the total surface area in the first part of Step 1 plus enough extra to accommodate overlapping the joints. Usually 5% extra is sufficient to cover the lap joints. For more corners and intricate shapes allow at least 10% above the total surface area.

Fasteners for a rigid backwall installation are required in numbers of approximately 175 per 100 sq. ft.

Step 4. Stone Layout

Begin by spreading out approximately 25 sq. ft. of stone on the ground. Notice the variety in sizes and color variations. The desired effect is a balanced mix of sizes and colors. It may even be helpful to "dry lay" the stones on the ground then you will have a good idea of how you are going to put them up.

Step 5. Mortar Preparation

Use a premixed type N mortar. It should be mixed to a firm, moist consistency. Mortar that is to dry does not have enough moisture to complete the chemical process of curing properly and the bond will be weak. Mortar that is too wet will be messy and difficult to work with.

Mortar should not be applied when the temperature is below freezing or when the temperature will fall below freezing before the application cures.

Step 6. Applying Mortar

Using a plasterer's trowel apply a scratch coat to the prepared surface on a top corner of your installation area. The scratch coat should contain enough mortar to slightly overfill the pockets of the expanded mesh. If you do not have any corners then start near the top edge at one side or the other of your installation. Keep in mind that if you get to far ahead applying a scratch coat, it will begin to set up before you can apply the stone. Start out with a small area approximately 4-6 sq. ft. and then increase as you become more comfortable with the process.

Step 7. Applying Stones

Starting with an upper corner apply approximately a ¼ inch of mortar to the back surface of the stone. Next press the stone into the scratch coat. A good bond and complete coverage is achieved when a small amount of mortar is squeezed out from all edges of the stone. Do not try to wipe away the mortar you just squeezed out. Doing so will smear mortar on the stone. Leave it, because this mortar is used later to finish the joint. Alternate the direction of the long leg of the corner pieces as you work you way down.

Once you have finished the corner begin to apply the flat pieces using the same technique of applying approximately ¼ inch of mortar to the back of the stone and pressing it firmly into the fresh scratch coat.

Step 8. Finishing Joints

After the mortar between the stones has become firm and not sticky it is time to finish the joints. This is an important process for the quality of the joints will have a major impact on the appearance of your project. Take your time and do a good job. The time for mortar joints to dry will vary depending on the temperature and humidity. A starting point would be two to four hours and adjust from there depending on the conditions. This time frame is an estimate based on temperature, little or no wind and average humidity. If it is hot and windy drying time may be significantly reduced. A good rule of thumb is if you can barely indent the mortar when pressing it your finger then it is ready to finish. Now use your striker to push the mortar into the joint and smooth it in one pass

Step 9. Final Cleaning

After the mortar has sufficiently set up, it will be dry and crumbly, the finished joints should be brushed with the wisk brush to remove any loose mortar. Use water to remove any excess dust. If the stone will be in contact with water, after cleaning, it is a good idea to seal it with a professional quality sealer.